Maxokk Bakery

Maxokk has been the Attard family's wood oven since the 1930s. Three generations in, the recipe hasn't moved much. You walk in and the dough is already on the peel; the ftira comes out flat, blistered, smelling of olive oil and the wood the morning's fire was lit with.

Order the ftira tal-Maxokk with the works — capers, tuna, tomato, olives, sheep's cheese — and eat it on the way back down toward the village square. Locals have been doing exactly that for ninety years.