Gleneagles Bar

Gleneagles is the bar you can almost trip into walking off the ferry. Thirty steps from the terminal, no signage trying to seduce anyone, just a door, a room, and the regulars who would be here whether you'd shown up or not.

It's a kazin in the proper sense — the village bar where men who've been doing the same work since they were teenagers come to sit down. The fishermen who unload at Mġarr at dawn end the day in here. You order a Cisk, you sit at the bar, you listen.